The Big Muddy (Saskatchewan's badlands) was carved out by melt water during the last ice age. The Big Muddy Valley runs in a southeasterly direction from south-central Saskatchewan to north-eastern Montana where it meets the Missouri River Basin. This area is one of the most spectacular areas of Saskatchewan. The Big Muddy is known for it's rolling hills which are filled with many different kinds of flora (Prickly Pear Cactus, Greasewood Shrub, Woods Rose, Western Red Lily, Saskatoon Bushes to name just a few) and fauna (numerous species of hawks, Golden Eagles, Chiroptera, Jack Rabbits, and of course beavers). The more dramatic features include cliffs, buttes, hogbacks that reveal the sedimentary layering process. These layers show a series of geological events that have taken place over the last 65 million years. The most famous natural features in the area include the Castle (pictured), The Three Sisters, The Arch, White Mud Formation.

Since 1968, after sensitive seismographs were installed, 14 natural earthquakes are known to have occurred in Saskatchewan. The largest one was magnitude 3.9, August 17, 1982, near the town of Big Beaver, Saskatchewan close to the U.S. border. It was big enough to rattle the windows and crack plaster in a few houses. Other earthquakes were smaller, but still large enough to be noticed by people indoors.

This area is not just important in the geological field but also rich in paleontalogical finds.  The area around Big Beaver is one of the richest in boulder effigies. These locations which have never come under cultivation, show monuments of geometric patterns laid out in stone. Some are unexplainable, but others of human or animal figures tell of personal or tribal tragedies, battles, and others represent the resting place of important tribal members. Artifacts of the Hanna, Pelican Lake, and Besant cultures are found in the area. This gives evidence of human occupation at 3000 and 2000 years ago. Some of the most seen effigies are The Turtle Effigy, The Ceremonial Circle, The Medicine Wheel, The Buffalo Effigy (the only known one in Canada), and The Bird Shoot Effigy.

The Big Muddy played it's roll in Western History with some of the biggest names in history. Such names as Sitting Bull, Butch Cassidy, Sam Kelly and the N.W.M.P.

Sitting Bull (Sioux medicine man) took up residence near Wood Mountain after defeating General George Custer at the battle of Little Big Horn. Sitting Bull was determined not to be restrained on a reservation, so he lead about 5000 tribe members in to Southern  Saskatchewan near Fort Walsh in 1876. It was the North West Mounted Police (N.W.M.P), led by Major James Walsh  (one of Canada's most honorable "redcoats"), that made sure Sitting Bull obeyed Canadian law which protected him. Over the next five years they roamed Southern Saskatchewan, but it soon became apparent there was trouble coming between the Sioux and Canadian Indians. Food in the area was becoming scarce.
On July 10, 1881 Sitting Bull and about 500 remaining Sioux began the trek to Fort Buford, North Dakota with the help of Métis scouts for the N.W.M.P to surrender to the American Commander. Sitting Bull was demanding extra food at the first campsite near Buffalo Gap, Saskatchewan and Louis Legare became suspicious of the demands so close to the border. Johnny Chartrand (one of the Métis scouts) rode ahead to tell the Americans. Sitting Bull later died on a reservation in Minnesota in 1890 resisting arrest.

Towards the end of the Indian occupancy and before this area became settled, it went through a phase of outlaw history.  The United States had developed its West more rapidly than we did, but its law structure as civilization advanced, brought about the Western Outlaw History. Many of these outlaws sought refuge in the Big Muddy. One of the most famous of these outlaws was Butch Cassidy and the Wild Bunch. He set up an outlaw trail extending from Canada to Mexico with regular hideouts in remote areas. Their number one station on the outlaw trail was near the current location of Big Beaver. This was a location that was away from banks, mines and the temptations they brought. However, as the Canadian West was developing the demand for horses and cattle grew. It was this demand they became eager to fill. They often stole horses they just sold, bringing them back and forth across the border to sell to unsuspecting homesteaders.

The Big Muddy is full of canyons and gulches that provided good concealment and ideal places for headquarters of gangs of horse thieves, cattle rustlers, and outlaws. Many local ranchers had to turn an eye to incidents that happened on their land so they could stay in business. There were two major gangs operating in the area, The Henry Yeuch (alias Dutch Henry) and the Nelson Jones (alias Sam Kelly) gang. Cassidy and other members of the Wild Bunch were amazingly successful in eluding the law. One key to their success was the friendships they cultivated with local ranchers that were willing to pasture their horses, give or sell them supplies, keep quiet when lawmen sought information.

The N.W.M.P had a detachment at Wood Mountain but the patrols were to long to police the Big Muddy adequately. So a Post was established in 1902 at Big Muddy close to the lawless Valley Country of Montana, U.S.A to curtail the Nelson Jones Gang and to enforce small-pox quarantine. By 1904, the Nelson Jones Gang was broken up. The detachment had five constables under Cpl. A.C.L Bird, known as the man that never sleeps. 

Horse patrols were rough on both man and animal. Many hardship were encountered on those patrols. The last R.C.M.P. horse patrol ended near Big Beaver in 1938. Officer Doug Minor was the last Mountie to patrol this area on horseback.

Please take a look at the Related Links for more history and stories of Big Beaver and the Big Muddy area. Also, check out the Attractions List to get Big Muddy Tour information.